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Get On the Cob This time of year, it’s OK to get corny 
Fresh picked corn on the cob is incomparable in flavor and texture. It’s a priceless culinary delight. And now that corn is at its peak it’s a bargain, so indulge. Getting the best ears for the money seems tricky since corn is shrouded in a husk. Shoppers use various techniques, such as pulling back the green outer leaves or pinching the corn kernels to find the best ear. Buying corn-on-the-cob is actually easy. Select corn in the husk, which protects the kernels. The silk should be golden brown, not slimy or shriveled. Feel around the top of the ear. It should feel full to the touch, indicating that the corn kernels fill the cob. Don’t pull back the husk or you’ll dry the kernels. Deciding how to prepare the corn may be more of a challenge: so many choices, such a short season. For undiluted sweetness, steam or microwave corn. Corn is also ideal for outdoor cooking. Grilling woods, such as hickory or maple, add a complex accent to corn. Discard the corn’s silk, but keep the corn covered with the husk. Soak the corn in cold water for 30 minutes, then grill. Once you’ve satisfied your immediate appetite, indulge in corn-based dishes. Mix raw corn kernels into a batch of muffins, scones or even pancakes. Cook a couple extra ears of corn to use in other dishes. For example, scrape cooked corn kernels off the cob and mix into your favorite salsa or guacamole recipe. Add cooked corn to pasta, bean, tomato or rice salad. Estimate that you’ll get a half-cup of kernels from an ear of fresh corn. Fresh corn makes this chowder distinctive and appealing, but frozen super-sweet corn may be substituted. Corn Chowder 2 slices bacon 1 tablespoon butter 1 large green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 small red onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons flour 4 cups milk or 3 cups milk plus 1 cup half-and-half 4 small Yukon Gold potatoes, cooked and diced small 11/2 cups corn kernels (3 ears fresh; 11/2 cups frozen kernels) 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon crushed, dried thyme 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Render bacon in large pot. Remove and drain on paper towels. Crumble and set aside. Pour off all but 2 teaspoons bacon drippings. Add butter to pot and melt. Add bell pepper and onion. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring frequently or until vegetables are tender. Sprinkle on flour. Stir well. Gradually add milk. Bring to a simmer. Add potatoes, bacon, pepper, salt, thyme and red pepper flakes. Simmer for 10 minutes or until flavors are blended and chowder is slightly thickened. Do not allow it to boil. Makes 4 entrée; 6 first-course servings. Note: for vegetarian corn chowder skip the bacon. Increase the butter to 4 teaspoons. Taste the chowder before adding salt.
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Bev Bennett, a veteran food writer and editor, is the author of "Dinner for Two: A Cookbook for Couples" and "30-Minute Meals for Dummies"
