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Grading Leafy Greens

Darker, denser varieties earn higher marks for nutritional value

Leafy greens have the paradoxical distinction of being the riskiest food regulated by the Food and Drug Administration, as well as the healthiest type of vegetable you could put in your body, according to research by the nutrition advocacy group Center for Science in the Public Interest, Washington, D.C.

Scientists in October released a list of the top 10 riskiest foods according to the number of food-borne illness outbreaks associated with them since 1990. Leafy greens - including lettuce and spinach - top the list, sickening more people than bad eggs, tuna or oysters. Yet seven of the top 10 healthiest veggies, as determined by the same organization in separate studies, are green leafy vegetables, with cooked Swiss chard, kale, spinach, frozen collard greens and Brussels sprouts topping the list.

What would Popeye do? Shy away from spinach just in case?

The FDA posts recalled foods on its Web site; by all means, avoid leafy greens when outbreaks are reported. Otherwise, "The risk of getting a food-borne illness from leafy greens is outweighed by the benefits they provide," so eat up, says Jennifer Ventrelle, a clinical nutritionist and registered dietitian at Rush University Medical Center, Chicago.

As a group, leafy greens are good sources of vitamins A, C, E and K; the minerals iron and calcium; and dietary fiber, which promotes digestive health and helps with weight maintenance. Research indicates that a diet rich in green leafy vegetables lowers the risk of heart disease and certain types of cancer.

But not all leafy greens are created equal. When it comes to nutritional value, lighter leafy greens like romaine and iceberg lettuce pale in comparison (pun intended) to their darker counterparts. "Choose the ones that look the darkest and densest, such as kale, collard greens and spinach," says Nicole Garfield, a registered dietitian and executive chef for The Pump Energy Food stores, New York City.

The healthiest way to cook leafy greens is to steam or sauté them, as boiling them depletes their nutrients. You can blanch heartier greens like kale before sautéing them so they aren't as tough, Garfield says. Frozen and canned greens are not nutritionally inferior to fresh ones; however, you should rinse canned greens to rid them of excess sodium, she adds. Serve leafy greens with a healthy fat source such as olive oil, salad dressing or nuts because many of their nutrients are fat-soluble.

The pathogens E. coli and salmonella are what cause illness when greens are contaminated. "If you're concerned, buy leafy greens locally and in season," Garfield advises. Pre-cut, bagged varieties undergo more processing, so pathogens have more opportunities to come into contact with the greens. In addition, the vacuum-sealed packages allow the pathogens to "flourish," Ventrelle says.

Unfortunately, "Rinsing or washing vegetables won't flush away pathogens," she says, though you should still wash greens to remove dirt and pesticides.

Sautéed Kale with Cherry Tomatoes and Toasted Almonds

Ingredients:

1 pound fresh kale, stems removed

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/4 small red onion, sliced

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/4 cup sliced almonds

1 Tbsp. olive oil

Sea salt and pepper, to taste

To Prepare: Bring a large pot of water to boil and drop in kale for 2 to 3 minutes; kale should be bright green. Place kale in strainer and run under cold water until cool. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat, add onion and garlic, and cook until golden brown (2 to 3 minutes). Add tomatoes to pan and cook until soft (3 to 4 minutes). While tomatoes are cooking, heat a small sauté pan without oil and add sliced almonds. Cook until they are golden brown; make sure you watch them as they will burn quickly. When tomatoes are soft, add kale to pan and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until Kale is warm. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with toasted almonds. Recipe created by Nicole Garfield for The Pump Energy Food, New York City.

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